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Destinations In East Africa
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Kenya's Geography ___________________________________________________________________________________________ |
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| Kenya
is notable for its' geographical variety. The low-lying, fertile
coastal region, fringed with coral reefs and islands, is back by a
gradually rising coastal plain, a dry region covered with savanna
and thorn bush. At an altitude of about 1,524 m and 300 miles inland, the plain gives way in the southwest to a high plateau, rising in parts to 3,048 m, in which about 85% of the population and the majority of economic enterprise are concentrated. The northern section of Kenya, forming three-fifths of the whole territory, is arid and of semi desert character, as is the bulk of the southeastern quarter. In the high plateau area, known as the Kenya Highlands, lie Mt. Kenya (5,200 m), Mt Elgon (4,322m) and the Aberdare Ranger (rising to over 3,963 m). The plateau is bisected from north to south by the Rift Valley, part of the great geological fracture that can be traced from Syria through the Red Sea and East Africa to Mozambique. In the north of Kenya, the valley is broad and shallow, embracing Lake Turkana (160 miles long), while further south it narrows and deepens and is walled by escarpments 610 to 930 meters high. West of the Rift Valley, the plateau descends to the plains that border Lake Victoria. The principal rivers are the Tana and the Athi, flowing southeast to the Indian Ocean, the Ewaso Ngiro flowing northeast to the swamps of the Lorian Plain, and the Nzoia, Yala and Gori, which drain eastward into Lake Victoria. Low plains rise to central highlands, divided by the Great African Rift Valley.
TSAVO NATIONAL PARK. The Park which lies roughly
half-way between the coast and Nairobi, is bisected by the main
Nairobi-Mombasa road and railway. This is designated as the Tsavo
Road and Railway National Reserve. That portion lying north and
east of the road is designated Tsavo Park East; that to the south
and west, Tsavo Park West. The Park is watered by two permanent
rivers, the Tsavo River which flows through Tsavo Park West and
the Athi River which crosses a corner of Tsavo Park East. The two
unite above Lugard Falls to become the Galana River. The Voi
River, to the south, is not permanent. Mainly on account of the
difficult waterless nature of much of the terrain, parts of the
Park have not yet been developed for visitors. These include the
uninhabited scrub desert north of the Galana River. Most of the Park is made up of
basement gneisses and schists, but part of the western sector is
of recent volcanic origin, including the Chyulu Hills extension.
Here may be seen many lava flows and cones, such as Shetani, near
Kilaguni Lodge, which is a perfect example of a recent volcano.
This volcanic zone also contains the famous Mzima Springs, where
some 50 million gallons of sparkling crystal-clear water gush out
daily from below a lava ridge. Hippopotamus and shoals of Barbel
live in the springs and provide a dramatic spectacle. The water is
so clear that every action of these huge aquatic beasts under the
water, and of their attendant piscine scavengers, may be watched
from the lookouts or through the plate-glass windows of the
submerged observation chamber. Downstream from the springs is a
dense and luxuriant stand of wild date palms and Raphia palms, the
latter with immense fronds of up to 9m (30ft) long. It is not
unusual to spot the rare and elusive African Finfoot swimming
between the fronds where these touch the water. One of the other great
spectacles of Tsavo Park, perhaps it’s greatest , is Mudanda
Rock between Voi and Manyani. This 11/2km-long outcrop is a water
catchment area which supplies a natural dam at it’s base. In the
dry season, hundreds of elephants come to drink and bathe. From a
safe vantage point just above the water visitors may have the luck
to sit and watch the activities of great beasts below them. A
similar elephant spectacle may also be observed at Aruba Dam. The Lugard Falls on the Galana
River, 40km (25 miles) from Voi, are remarkable for the fantastic
shapes of the water-worn rocks. The river disappears into a rocky
gorge so narrow in one part that it is possible to stand astride
the cleft with the Falls immediately below. At present there is a network of
over 800km (500 miles) of roadways in the Tsavo Park, passing
through much of the best game viewing areas and following the
rivers where there is the greatest concentration of game during
the dry season. Specially rewarding circuits are those along the
Galana River from Lugard Falls to Sobo, southwards to Aruba and
then north-west to Mudanda Rock; and from Kilaguni Lodge to Tsavo
Gate, along a stretch of the Tsavo River. Elephants in large herds are the
number one attraction in Tsavo. For those who like to indulge in
game watching without effort, what could be pleasanter than to
recline in a comfortable chair on the veranda of Kilaguni Lodge, a
cold drink at hand, and watch the elephants take their refreshment
from the waterhole 90m (100yd) or so away. Tsavo is also a good place to
see one of our most beautiful antelopes, the Lesser Kudu with
spiral horns and white striped coat. Whilst you may come across
these graceful animals almost anywhere, the dry bush along the
Galana River is their favourite haunt. Other animals likely to be
encountered are Buffalo, Common Waterbuck, Eland, Gerenuk,
Fringe-eared Oryx, Impala and Masai Giraffe. Black Rhinoceros,
once numerous, are now less frequently seen. Birdlife is legion in the Park
and the visitor is constantly meeting with new species. One of the
most conspicuous is the White-headed Buffalo Weaver,
brownish-black and white with a startling vivid red rump when it
flies. Starlings are numerous, including the brilliantly plumaged
Golden-breasted Starling and the rare but duller Fischer’s
Starling. Hornbills are another prevalent group of birds, eight
species occur in the Park. Birds of prey, Bustards, Sunbirds and
Weaver-birds are other families well represented. Hole-nesting
birds – Starlings, Parrots, Barbets and Rollers – are often
associated with the thick trunked Baobab trees which are such a
feature of the landscape. Accommodation in the Tsavo
National Park includes Kilaguni Lodge, 35km (22 miles) from Mtito
Andei, with full catering facilities and amenities. Some 32km (20
miles) from Kilaguni, at the end of the Ngulia Valley is the
Ngulia Safari Lodge, also with all facilities. Nearby mist-netting
is used to catch palearctic migrant birds for ringing. Just
outside the southern boundary of the Park, south of the Taita
Hills, are the Taita Hills Lodge and the nearby Salt Lick Lodge
from which one can sometimes watch an elephant display at the
water-holes there. One of Africa’s rarest birds, the Taita
Falcon, sometimes visits these water-holes whilst hunting it’s
avian prey. Voi Safari Lodge, sited on top
of one of the hills near the main entrance gate to Tsavo East AT
Voi, also offers full amenities. Further west there is a luxury
camp operated by Tsavo Safaris on the Athi River, with an access
road from Mtito Andei. Self-service accommodation is
available at Kitani Lodge, Ngulia Self-service bandas and Murka
Lodge in Tsavo West, and at Aruba Lodge in Tsavo East, 35km (22
miles) from Voi. There are bandas and a camp site with water at
Lake Jipe, where a boat is also available. In addition there are
camp sites with showers, toilets and drinking water at Tsavo East
and West, Mtito Andei Gate, Chyulu Gate, Voi Gate and Buchuma
Gate. They are sometimes used by film companies and booking is
recommended. Outside the Park accommodation is available at hotels
at Mtito Andei and at Voi. Main roads connect Tsavo National Park
with Nairobi and Mombasa, and for those who travel
by air there are landing fields at Kilaguni Lodge, Aruba and
elsewhere. AMBOSELI NATIONAL PARK Amboseli
is justly famous for it’s big game – elephants, lions and
cheetahs are the main attractions – and for it’s great scenic
beauty. The
3810sqkm (1,259sq miles) of this National Park and Game Reserve
embody five main wildlife habitats, plus a generally dry lake-bed,
Lake Amboseli, from which it takes it’s name. These are open
plains; extensive stands of yellow-barked acacia woodland; rocky,
lava strewn thorn-bush country; swamps and marshes; and at the
western end of the Reserve, above Namanga, the massif of Oldoinyo
Orok rising to over 2,760 (8,300ft) and still for the most part
zoologically unexplored. The
landscape is everywhere dominated by the glistening, majestic
snow-cap of Kilimanjaro immediately to
the south – Africa’s highest mountain (5,894m-19,340ft)
– a fitting back-drop to a wild region where the pastoral Masai
and their cattle have lived in harmony with wild creatures for
many a century. Amboseli
may be reached from Nairobi by two main routes. The first is to
Athi River and thence along the main Kajiado-Namanga-Arusha road,
turning left through the National Park main gate at Namanga to Ol
Tukai Lodge, 75km (47 miles) on. Total distance from Nairobi is
240km (150 miles). The second route is from Nairobi along the main
Mombasa Road to some 16km (10 miles) past Emali, then branching
right and following the main Loitokitok road: approximately 64km
(40 miles) along this road it forks right and the Lodge is 32km(20
miles) farther on. Total mileage from Nairobi is 228km (142
miles). Accommodation is available at Amboseli New Lodge, Ol Tukai
Lodge, Serena Lodge, Ol Tukai Tented Camp and the Namanga Hotel.
Camp sites are also available. The
main game-viewing area of Amboseli lies in the eastern half of the
Park, in the vicinity of Ol Tukai Lodge and Lakes Engoni Naibor
and Loginya. Here a network of roads and tracks opens up a wild
life paradise. Elephant,
Lion, Leopard, Cheetah, Masai Giraffe and Buffalo may all be
encountered during a single morning’s drive of about 90km (50-60
miles), together with plains game such as Common Zebra, Eland,
Coke’s Hartebeest, White-bearded Gnu, Common Waterbuck,
Thompson’s and Grant’s Gazelle and Impala. Black Rhino can
still be seen occasionally although they are now rare due to
poaching in the mid-1970’s. In
the dry bush country towards Namanga, and in the arid area en
route to Emali, two especially interesting antelopes may be found:
the long-necked Gerenuk – often called the `Giraffe-necked
Antelope’ –and the Fringe-eared Oryx. Smaller mammals always
in evidence include Black-faced Vervet Monkey and Yellow Baboon,
Black-headed Jackals, Spotted Hyaena and Bat-eared Foxes. The last
may often be seen basking in the sun outside their dens or in the
open plains. Bird
life is equally abundant, especially in the vicinity of the lakes
and swamps where a great variety of water birds may be seen. That
rarity in East Africa, the Madagascar Squacco Heron, turns up at
fairly regular intervals and the plover with the habits of a
lily-trotter, the Long-toed Lapwing, is a resident in small
numbers. Sandgrouse of three species, Yellow-throated,
Chestnut-bellied and Black-faced, water in their hundreds during
the dry season, announcing their arrival at their favourite
drinking place with far-carrying gutteral sounding flock calls. Birds
of prey are verywell represented. Including the six species of
vultures no less than 47 different kinds have been recorded from
Amboseli, amongst which are two great rarities, The Taita Falcon
and the Southern Banded Harrier Eagle. Around the lodges and tented camp, visitors will see flocks of a yellow weaver-bird with a patch of chestnut on the nape. This is the extremely local Taveta Golden Weaver, which outside of Amboseli may lightly be considered a rare bird. But the bird which quickly draws attention to itself on account of it’s brilliant plumage and fearless behaviour – it will alight on your table and partake of bread and cake crumbs – is the Superb Starling. MAASAI MARA GAME RESERVE. The
Mara Game Reserve, as it was originally known, an area of some
1,812 sq km (700 sq miles), was established in 1961. it’s
southern boundary is contiguous with Tanzania’s Serengeti
National Park, and it is divided into two sections. The inner
reserve of 518sq km (200sq miles) has been developed on the lines
of a National Park, no intrusion of human settlement being
allowed, while the outer remains an undeveloped area where local
Masai are permitted to pasture their cattle but which is otherwise
undisturbed.
The
Mara country is world famous for it’s vast assemblages of plains
game together with their associated predators. It is perhaps the
only region left in Kenya where the visitor may see animals in the
same super-abundance as existed a century ago.
Everything is big in Mara. It is a country of breath-taking vistas, a panorama of vast rolling plains and rounded hills, of intermittent groves of acacia woodlands and dense thickets of scrub. The whole is bisected by the Mara River and it’s tributaries which are margined by luxuriant riverine forest. And in every direction, there are the seemingly endless herds of game animals. Mara
possesses the largest population of lions to be found in Kenya,
although poisoning by farmers along the western border has reduced
the number of Black-maned Lions. It also boasts large herds of
Topi and a small population of Roan Antelope, animals not found in
many other Kenya National Parks or Reserves (although more common
in Lambwe Valley and the Shimba Hills). Elephants are fairly
common and the traveler may sometimes be held up by `elephants on
the road’.
Among
the great variety of large beasts are Buffalo, Black Rhino (which
may be seen more easily than at Amboseli or Tsavo), and
Hippopotamus. The hippo-viewing platform on the Mara River near
the Mara Serena Lodge is probably the best place in Kenya for
seeing hippo. Other mammals include Leopard, Cheetah, Common
Zebra, Coke’s Hartebeest, White- bearded Gnu, Oribi, Warthog,
and Thompson’s and Grant’s gazelles. The
bird life of Mara is as profuse as it’s mammalian fauna. The
red-winged Schalow’s Turaco with it’s attenuated white-tipped
crest is common along the numerous wooded watercourses, and in the
more extensive riverine forest there is also Ross’ Turaco. The
Mara River is also the home of the great orange-buff Pel’s
Fishing Owl and of flocks of wary Crested Guinea-fowl. On
the open plains, there is a variety of bustards including the
large Jackson’s Bustard and the black-bellied Hartlaub’s
Bustard. The latter during nuptial display soars high in the air,
then with rigid wings descends slowly to earth like a pricked
balloon. Ground Hornbills are one of the most spectacular birds of
the open plains and more easily seen in the Mara than elsewhere in
Kenya. Birds
of prey are abundant, and no less than 53 different species have
so far been recorded. Secretary Birds are a common sight as they
stalk sedately over the grasslands, and in the sky there are
always vultures and that effortless flier the Bateleur. Accommodation
in Masai Mara National Reserve is at Keekorok Lodge, which is
265km (165 miles) from Nairobi on a road quite negotiable by
saloon cars. The route is via the Nairobi-Naivasha road, turning
left at 56km (35 miles); thence to Narok, 103km (64 miles), and
then 106km (66 miles)to the lodge through some of the best game
country in Kenya. In the undeveloped part of the Reserve a limited
number of camp sites are available, but the numbers of campers
allowed onto the reserve is strictly limited to avoid disturbance
to the game, and there are tented camps near the eastern entrance
and elsewhere. In addition there is the Mara Serena Lodge, sited on high ground in the west of the Park overlooking the Mara River and two luxury camps sited on the eastern bank of the Mara River. These are the East African Wildlife Safari Camp near the old Mara bridge and the Governor’s Camp some miles further downstream.
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